Why Brunei? & Other (Un)Answered Questions

The Sultanate of Brunei was a British protectorate from 1888 until 1984, when it gained independence. It chose to remain under British dependency in 1963 rather than join the Federation of Malaysia. In 1967, its current Sultan, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, ascended the throne following his father's abdication.

Relevant link: Brunei Country Profile on the BBC

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital and largest city of the Sultanate, has the looks of an urban area with the pulse and rhythm of a province. It doesn't seem as flashy as the other cities in the world built on oil and gas reserves (Dubai and Abu Dhabi, for example), but it shares some similar qualities: low crime rate, high quality of living for the populace, state-controlled media, and the application of Sharia law. (On the last point, Brunei remains the only East Asian country to apply Sharia. It introduced Sharia law fairly recently--in 2014--and received international condemnation for it. You can read this 2015 article on The Diplomat, and, to compare, "Bruneians unfazed by 'sensationalism' of Sharia law".)

I knew only surface details about this move to enact Sharia law (which include, among other things, prison sentences for pregnancies outside marriage, amputation for stealing, and execution for homosexuality). Now I wonder--is this why whenever we stepped out onto the streets of Bandar, you can only see at most 10 people walking? Is this why Bandar is not overrun by tourists? Is this why people speak in soft voices? (We were always the loudest people in any given place, at any given time.)

That said, the Filipino tour guide I've spoken to spoke of the Sultan and the country in warm, glowing terms. I get it. As a working-class Filipino in Brunei, you would fall in love with the opulence, with the fact that you could leave your bag outside the cubicle while you take a leak and return with your belongings intact, with the fact that the people of Brunei receive generous welfare provisions (free education and virtually free healthcare--a sign that the Sultanate takes care of its people) and pay no taxes. (If you are a young member of the cosmopolitan elite, you might hate it because there is no night life, and you need to pay taxes to bring in cigarettes and alcohol.) These come with the loss of specific freedoms but so what? It is so exhausting to fear crime on a daily basis, to work so hard and still not have enough money to pay the hospital bills. 

This is key to understanding why some Filipinos did not even blink when the government planned to reinstate the death penalty, as the drug war raged. They'd look at rich countries like Brunei and think, well, they're even for stoning gay people to death and they're rich, so maybe if we do that we'll have discipline and we'll be rich, too. (This is a gross oversimplification--or maybe not. We've always felt this undercurrent of exhaustion and defeat: just kill them all, so we can live a peaceful life.)

(But to sort of answer the so what: what about human rights? what about LGBT and women's rights? what about art? what about press freedom? what about self-expression? what about rehabilitation? what about debates? what about criticism? what about being allowed to make mistakes? what about enriching ourselves? what of the freedoms you'd have to give up for a promise of economic prosperity?)

(It is not an easy question to answer.)

So why Brunei?

I traveled with a group of friends, and my friend booked the trip because 1) we haven't been there, and we've traveled in other countries in Southeast Asia and 2) there was a sale. (This second reason is usually the root of all our group decisions!)

We took the evening flight out of Manila and arrived at the eerily quiet Brunei International Airport. We were billeted at Jubilee Hotel, a budget hotel that comes with a free airport transfer if you arrive before 9pm. We arrived after 9pm, so our group paid 10 Brunei dollars. 

(One Brunei dollar is around 38 pesos. It's a rare currency that Philippine banks don't keep reserves of, so you're better off exchanging your money at the airport.)

Jubilee Hotel has a mini-mart and a cafe (which close at 11pm and 10pm, respectively) so that's pretty convenient.

The next two days were spent at Ulu-Ulu Temburong National Park. This resort is carved into the middle of a rainforest, and you'll have to travel four hours to get there. Speed boat, van, then a long boat. Most Brunei travel blogs skip this and stick to Bandar. That's okay, too. It just depends on what you want to do. I'd rather sleep and drink coffee, so this was still a relaxing overnight stay even though 1) I didn't join the water activities 2) we didn't see anything during the night nature walk because we just talked over each other and scared all the bugs away ("Nasaan daw yung insekto?" "Nasa dahon daw!" "Eh ang daming dahon dito!") and 3) I didn't reach the top of the canopy walk because I couldn't handle the pace of our uber-competitive tour guide (Chris Quijano, recommended) who wanted to reach the tower first.

If I were traveling alone (but I wasn't), I would probably skip this. That by no means is a knock on Ulu-Ulu--it is a gorgeous place. Good for resting (and water activities, if you're into that). Bring a book because there is no signal and no Wi-Fi.

Notes:

• In Brunei, point with your thumb, not your forefinger. 
• There are a lot of crocodiles in the water. Like, a lot a lot. 
• Since you'll be traveling by long boat, I suggest you use a waterproof bag or a dry bag.

This is a passenger speed boat, we were just lucky to be the only passengers going there.

I spy a Philippine flag.

My friends coming back from water tubing and fish spa at the waterfall.

Chris here is smiling but he's really thinking Mga punyeta kayo ang iingay niyo. Charot.

Back to the city.

We thought the Kianggeh market is a night market. Wrong. It closes at 4pm. This was taken at around 5pm. See the empty city behind me. This is either your worst nightmare, or best day ever. (I have to admit it's nice to apparently be the only tourist for miles around.)

A virtually empty city square. And it's not even 7pm.

I see that American capitalism has reached your shores as well!

We stayed till late at a Gloria Jean's and we were the only customers until around 10 or so. Wild.

Bandar City Tour

Now my kind of tour.

Most hotels offer a guided tour, so you can sign up with them.

Notes:

• These places have no entrance fees.
• Wear a pair of shoes you can remove easily, as you will be asked to remove them.
• Dress modestly, as you will be entering places of worship. You can't show your shoulders and your knees. Female tourists need not cover their hair.
• On Fridays, from 12 to 2pm, businesses close for prayers. 

We went to the gold-domed Royal Regalia Building, which holds several exhibits on the rule of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. Exhibits include: photos during key moments in his rule, replicas of his palace, and a collection of gifts to the Sultan from the heads of state: some jaw-dropping, some a bit cringeworthy (wait till you see the gifts from the Philippine presidents: haha and also, huhu).

No photos allowed, but we were allowed to take photos at the vestibule. They also have a souvenir shop where you can buy your pasalubong (souvenir/gifts for home). Prices are fair. I got a bunch of scarves and keychains and a ref magnet, as per usual.

This is the Royal Chariot used to parade the Sultan.

We also visited the Brunei History Museum and their marine museum, where we made several astute observations, such as, "Iisa lang ang supplier nila ng mannequin, ano?"

Headhunting is the practice of preserving the head of the person you have killed. This was once practiced by the Iban people of Borneo.

Below is a not-so-beautiful photo of the beautiful Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. The main dome is pure gold. Tourists are not allowed inside.

On the other hand, tourists are allowed inside the Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, but you can't take photos of the interior. 

Behind me, between the staircases, is an escalator that only becomes operational when the Sultan comes to visit.

We then went to the luxurious The Empire Hotel & Country Club, to accompany a couple of our friends who are checking in for the night. (The rest of us were just there to wait for the dinner buffet. Thanks G and R!) 

Nice place, yeah?

Back to Jubilee. I noticed this arrow on the ceiling quite late in the trip--it points to Mecca, which determines which direction a Muslim should face during prayers.

We went to Gadong via their dollar buses to visit The Mall (yes, that's really the name) and buy--what else?--more pasalubong. Gadong also has a night market, but we didn't stay to check it out.

Some recommendations:

• Gery cheese biscuits (not expensive, so you can buy boxes and boxes of it)
• Variants of local instant noodles (I got a curry-flavored Maggi)
• Durian chocolate

It was a nice trip. Hassle-free. Quiet. Warm people. Brilliant architecture. A good break from the chaos of our own cities. 

Have you been to Brunei? What did you think?

(I have been remiss in sharing details about my trips! Next post should be about our trip to Taiwan.)